Every city in China seems to have its signature dish, and NiuRou LaMian is Lanzhou’s. Hand pulled noodles with beef, and lots of hot pepper, this dish is eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I have so far not had the courage to attempt to eat them for breakfast (I just don’t think I could stomach them) but they have made for some enjoyable lunches.
Small restaurants that serve only this dish are on every street, and they all have to be registered with some kind of LaMian association in order to sell the noodles under that name! You must first pay and receive a small ticket which you then take up to the kitchen window to get your meal. After a patient stand in what is often a long queue, the kitchen staff will ask what kind of noodles you want (thin to thick, there are at least four kinds!) and how much of the spicy pepper sauce you can handle. A true Lanzhou resident can pile the hot sauce on, but I most definitely still have my training wheels on, even with a modest amount my mouth burns afterwards!
For extra beef and a variety of cold vegetable side dishes, more tickets must be purchased and taken to the appropriate window. In true Chinese fashion it is all highly organised.
From what I have observed so far, it is best to eat NiuRou LaMian with a friend. This way you can share the load- one can get the noodles, the other the cold dishes and if you’re lucky, somewhere to sit! This is always the hardest part of the NiuRou LaMian experience, and often people will stand over you as you finish your meal, ready to pounce on your seat. This definitely takes some getting used to, I’m still not there yet!
P.S Don’t forget the tissues or chewing gum for the tidy up afterwards, they definitely help you regain your composure after 10 minutes of vigorous slurping!
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